Fruit and Vegetables

Engage an apricot

Engage an apricot

We are searching data for your request:

Forums and discussions:
Manuals and reference books:
Data from registers:
Wait the end of the search in all databases.
Upon completion, a link will appear to access the found materials.

Question: engage an apricot

Good morning, I state that I am totally inexperienced in the matter, in my garden I have an apricot tree 10-15 years old but it is not able to ripen its fruit as they fall to the ground when they are still green, so I thought of grafting it with another apricot tree of 4-5 years that produces very good fruits, do you think it is possible to make a graft between the two trees? at what time of the year and which method would you recommend?

Answer: engage an apricot

Dear Claudia,
the grafts that are generally practiced on apricot trees are the split graft, which is practiced at the beginning of spring or at the end of winter, when the buds begin to swell, and the bud or bud graft, which is practiced instead using some dormant buds, in the months of August or early September.
Since the plant you want to use as a rootstock has serious problems producing fruit, try to graft it; but considers that the fruit drop may not be due to the variety of the apricot, but to its age, or to its positioning in the garden; in addition to this generally interesting varieties are grafted on vigorous and fruitful rootstocks, and therefore it could happen that your future apricot plant, although grafted with a variety that where you live develops well, has the same difficulties to bear fruit that it meets now. As I said, in any case, your plant does not ripen the fruit, so in theory you have nothing to lose; if the failure to bear fruit should be due to the young age of the tree, it will begin to ripen the fruits of the new grafted variety; and if it does not complete them anyway, even after the graft, well, things would not be so different from now, and besides that you would have tried to graft a tree.
The split graft requires that you go to prune all the foliage of the tree, cutting the stem parallel to the ground, at the height at which you want the branches to start; once this is done, a gap is made perpendicular to the ground, and the scions are inserted, cut with the lower part in the shape of a beak, so that the wood of the two trees is completely in contact; then it is tied with raffia and all wounds are closed with pruning putty.
The graft with bud or shield consists in preparing the scions taking from the twigs of the leaf peduncles, with attached a hoof formed by the bark of the plant; on the rootstock instead we look for a bark space at the top of the stem, where there are no knots or leaves or buds; a t-shaped cut is made, and the edges of the bark are raised. In the space thus created the marza is slipped on, and it is rolled up with the two raised bark strips; therefore it closes tightly with raffia. To practice the grafts, choose a not too hot day, and possibly work in the coolest hours of the day.